folder.old
then it’s all fun and games till you’ve been fucking with it for 3 hours and you get to folder.old.old.old.old.old
Yet another Reddit refugee from the great 3rd party app purge of 2023. This account is mostly for learning how Lemmy works and may be purged once I get around to hosting my own instance.
Obligatory fuck /u/Spez.
folder.old
then it’s all fun and games till you’ve been fucking with it for 3 hours and you get to folder.old.old.old.old.old
Oh yeah that’s a good idea too. Sure any one client device will be limited to 1g but your NAS could use a super cheap multi-port ethernet card to get 2 or 4g bonded link speeds so it can serve multiple devices at full speed.
Yup. Same age, same design, same failures… and array rebuilds are super intense workloads that often force a lot of random reads and run the drive at 100% load for many hours.
2.5 is still really new in the networking space and nobody has hit economies of scale yet. I very much also want to build out my home LAN to be entirely 2.5g compatible since 1g is limiting for my NAS use case (video storage), 10g is overkill and not supported by my client devices, and I only need 16/24 ports. but good God the hardware just isn’t reasonable yet.
You pretty much have to bite the bullet if you really want 2.5 right now. What might honestly be worthwhile is finding a used enterprise 1g switch with the number of ports you need, and will still be “enough”, as those can be had for only a couple hundred dollars. Sit on that for 2-3 years until the 2.5g and 5g hardware market starts to fill out and you can decide how badly you need 2.5g then
Really. Anything branded from Samsung or Crucial(Micron) is going to be fine. They are the top producers of NAND, produce high quality products, and stand behind warranties. But you are gonna pay out the nose for the privilege of enterprise grade hardware.
You might just be buying lower quality consumer SSD’s though, since even they should be able to handle a surprising amount of abuse.
If I had a dollar for every time rebuilding a RAID array after one failed drive caused a second drive failure in the array in less than 24 hours… I’d probably buy groceries for a week.
…I thought you just said you’re running OwnCloud?
Jpg at 70% will lose a significant amount of detail. It is a “lossy” format, you cant judt compress data for nothing.
AVIF is significantly more efficient than jpeg, so it loses less image data for higher compression (smaller file sizes).
JXL supports both lossy and lossless compression, and is supposed to be more efficient yet over AVIF. However it’s got proprietary all over it because Google et al. For thst alone I would shy away from JXL and go AVIF.
I second RustDesk, I’ve started using it a lot lately and it works quite well even across the internet and NAT. Works best if you have your own server that you can use as a relay rather than direct connection or using RustDesk’s own limited public servers, but even without it, it gets the job done.
That’s the other option, yeah. If you already have a valid OEM key tied to your hardware though I can understand people not wanting to fuck with it.
I’ve switched almost exclusively to using RustDesk these days for anything outside of my LAN, and have had zero problems with it running on barebones machines, zero monitor connected. It’s open source!
If you’re wanting to use the windows built in RDP, there apparently is a DLL wrapper that enables the RDP server on Home installations. See github. I haven’t had to use it though because my machines are all, well, “legal” copies of 10 or 11 pro, so i cant speak to whether it works or not.
“Less” is still not “gone” unfortunately. You do still have to be very vigilant because federation from unknown instances intentionally spreading that stuff can and will end up getting garbage on to your server’s hard drive that you might not even notice.
Let’s also add
yeah, it exposes PCIe, i forgot about that. but still a single lane and requiring an additional adapter card and ribbon cable that complicates packaging a bit and adds cost. I dunno, I’m sour on Pi these days since they’ve spent years screwing over consumers in favor of business customers. I’ve chosen not to buy their stuff despite the better software support.
Pi’s have kinda garbage IO. You’re limited to USB only which is a shared bus (so if you’re saturating one hard drive, the other drives won’t be able to do shit and I dislike it) you’re also required to boot from SD card on a Pi, and OS level writes tend to kill SD cards frequently.
The Orange Pi 5 that I have technically has a PCIe NVME M.2 slot that runs at PCIe 2.0x2 iirc. I’ve not done it with mine yet, so I can’t guarantee compatibility, but that can theoretically be split using a m.2 to SATA controller adapter like that
But at that point and cost the Rockpro64 look like a legitimate option, since PCIe to SATA adapters using a 4x slot exist all over the damn place.
Honest opinion though: look for used office PC sales or government/school district clearing sales. I’ve gotten a stack of older 2nd/3rd gen intel Core machines at $50 a pop that are plenty fast for light home server use and have full fat motherboards for connecting up a bunch of SATA devices. They’re a little more power hungry- expect 50W or more at idle when you have drives spinning - but they simplify setup a lot, they package nicely since you can put the drives inside, and the power supply is built in.
I’m sure that’s a side effect that Texas is happy with.
Is there trim in the crease or it is a sharp corner? If there is trim and its not painted clean over, you can cheat and use paperclips. Fold the long leg out straight, so its horizontal, and the short U curl down at a 90, so it forms a hook. If you stick the horizontal wire in behind the trim itll usually wedge in without damaging the trim or paint visibly and hold enough for a cat5e.
If no trim, the sticky hangars are probably the best. Be careful not to buy cheap ones that might fall down, leave residue, or stick too hard and rip the paint off when you go to remove it.
Most distros, at least mainstream ones, will happily install right alongside Windows and give you the option to boot from either Linux or Windows when you start your PC.
Basically, there is a “boot loader” that the motherboard finds on the hard drive when the PC starts up and tells it to load the OS. The bootloader handles getting the OS kernel out of the hard drive and into memory with the correct drivers so the kernel can take over. Windows has its own bootloader that can only boot Windows. Linux also has a boot loader called “GRUB” that can boot multiple operating systems located in different partitions on your hard drive as long as it knows where they are.
You’ll have to first shrink your Windows partition using the Disk Management tool from inside windows so that there is “unused” space on your hard drive not occupied by the Windows file system. Then run your Linux bootable USB and it will take up that space to install Linux. Any normal distro like Ubuntu/Debian/Mint et al. will set up GRUB automatically to recognize both Linus and Windows, and you’ll be off to the races.
However, if you just want to play with Linux before you commit to faffing about in your partition tables, most distros can also run in a “live USB” state where it loads the basics of the OS directly from a USB stick into memory, no installation required. I highly recommend doing this first!
Hasn’t threads not even turned on activitypub support yet?